If your boat has been laid up over the winter months, it’s important to conduct a thorough de-winterization so that it is in top-notch condition for the upcoming boating season. Along with the following tips, be sure to refer to your owner’s manual for maintenance details, including when and how to properly replace fluids and parts.
HULL—Inspect for blisters, chips and cracks, and chalky residue. Repair blisters, chips, and cracks. A chalky hull may indicate oxidation that needs to be addressed. Clean the hull with a marine cleaner and apply a fresh coat of wax according to your gelcoat maintenance plan.
ENGINE AND OIL—If you didn’t change the oil and oil filter last fall, do so now. Change the oil in the transmission or the outboard’s lower unit, too. Check the power steering fluid levels.
COOLING SYSTEM—Flush the cooling system, rinse the strainer, and check the hoses for cracks. Replace the antifreeze with a 50/50 ratio of water to coolant.
BATTERY—Reattach the cables and clean the terminals if they have corroded. Top off the battery with distilled water. Use a battery tester to check the volts and amps, and replace the battery if necessary. The typical life for marine batteries is 4-5 years.
FUEL SYSTEM—Change the fuel filter, confirm the fuel line is attached, and check for cracks.
WATER PUMP AND THERMOSTAT—Each should be replaced once it reaches 200 hours of use.
DISTRIBUTOR—Clean the cap, which may have corroded over the winter. Make sure all connections are restored.
BELTS—Test by pushing down on belts; they should only have a slight give. Consider replacing belts that are loose or do not fit snugly in their pulley grooves. A worn belt will show black soot around the pulley.
ELECTRONICS—Test the radio, GPS, depth finder, running lights, and any other marine electronics to be sure they are working properly. Test all the switches and knobs, and flip the switches on the helm and cabin (since all electrical systems are connected). Confirm that the automatic bilge pump float switch works.
SAFETY GEAR—Check expiration dates on fire extinguishers; check signaling equipment, such as horns, flares, and whistles; test all the lights in the cabin and on deck; confirm you have an adequate number of floatation devices and that they are in good condition. If you removed items for storage over the winter, be certain to return them to the boat. This may include your first aid kit, life vests, flares, and extinguishers.
METAL AND TEAK—Use a metal polisher (such as Never Dull) to protect the metal. If teak needs a facelift, sand and then apply stain and varnish.
CANVAS AND VINYL—Check the bimini top, seats, covers and other items for tears, mildew, and dirt. Repair tears and clean with canvas or vinyl cleaners.
MISCELLANEOUS CHECKS AND SERVICE—Change the spark plugs; lubricate the engine with WD-40; replace the drain plug; check rudder and shafts; inspect the propeller; and make sure the anchor is on board.
CERTIFICATION—Keep a copy of your current government approved boating certificate on board so that you are in compliance with the law.
TRAILER—Confirm the lights are operational before going on the road with your boat.
Please let your Account Advisor know
if you have questions or would like a more detailed, technical reference guide
to de-winterizing your watercraft. One of our insurers that specializes in
watercraft and yachts has produced an excellent brochure, “Coming Out of
Lay-Up,” and we are happy to share with you.
The views and opinions expressed within are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of Parker, Smith & Feek. While every effort has been taken in compiling this information to ensure that its contents are totally accurate, neither the publisher nor the author can accept liability for any inaccuracies or changed circumstances of any information herein or for the consequences of any reliance placed upon it.
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